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Parchamo |
The Nepal Mountaineering
Association call this peak Parchemuche, a name
by which, as far as I can find out, no one else
knows it! The peak, which lies due south of the
Tesi Lapcha, is unnamed on the Schnider
Rolwaling Himal map, but is given a spot height
of (6273m/20581ft). The Mandala Lamasangu to9
Everest map calls the peak Parchome, which is
quite possibly a spelling mistake. Bath
Shipton’s and Gregory’s expedition surveys gave
the peal an altitude close to
6318metres(20700ft).
Seen from the pass the mountain is an attractive
but straightforward snow peak with a well
defined north by north-west ridge rising from
the relatively flat, crevassed glacier astride
the Tesi Lapche. To the west of the ridge the
face forms a uniform snow slope broken by
crevasses and small seracs rising from the rocky
lower buttresses above the Drolambau Glacier.
The mountain had an interesting early history,
some of which was outlined in 1955 by Dennis
Davis and Phil Boultgee, members of the highly
successful Merseyside Himalayan Expedition led
by Alf Gregory.
As well as climbing nineteen summits in and
around the Rolwaling Valley, their explorations
took them to the head of the Drolambau, where
numerous peaks were climbed, up the Ripimu
Glacier and into the Menlung Basin via the
Ripimu La. This was the most extensive
exploration of the area first entered by Shipton
that there has been, using a style of
expedition, light weight and free ranging, that
alas is no longer possible within the kingdom of
Nepal. |
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